Design details include a Front button stand and sleeve plackets cut on the cross-grain, and a Chevron Pocket.
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In fact, I had thousands of yards of it custom-manufactured a few months ago. Not too hard, not too soft, but just right for this shirt fabric and so many other garment and fabrics stretchy or not.
I haven't had time to blog for weeks This is one of the many shirts that I've been making for my clients. The fabric is a luscious wool gauze This design features a bias cut button band and bias cut sleeves with bias sleeves plackets the plackets made with coordinating wool gauze stripe. I also added a double-pocket. Working with wool gauze is not difficult, but is usually better suited to designs with more drape than a structured menswear shirt.
The key to making this beautiful fabric "work" for the structured parts collar, cuffs, front band, and sleeve plackets was using the right interfacing. A few words about the new men's shirt pattern from Vogue.
It will be a while before time allows me to make that particular shirt. I still need to finish more custom-drafted shirts for clients before I can indulge in any personal sewing First let's talk about the basic garment. The collar I'll be showing you can be added to any basic knit top. Here are some examples of patterns by Butterick and Vogue that would work with an added collar.
Note that the necklines are either "crew" or "jewel" in general shape and depth.. I am going to show you how I added a wide overlapped collar what I call a ""Split Cowl" to an otherwise simple knit pullover top.
The bodice and sleeves are made with Rayon knit Jersey purchased from www. The front neckline is about inches deep. At the end of this tutorial you will see variations that have lower or higher necklines but the construction technique is the same.
The next step is to sew the shoulder seams-- Now the complete neck-edge the "hole" needs to be measured. A collar needs to be made that is inches long, plus a generous 3 inches for overlap and to have enough to seam the ends.
Now what about the width? I have made so many of these tops over the years that I know that I like the results best when the cut collar width flat and single thickness before it is sewn is 8 inches to 12 inches wide. As you will see, this is an arbitrary width measurement, and after you make one, you will see the endless design possibilities by changing the width and shape of the collar. Before we all go cross-eyed There, that's it in a nutshell!
Normally I just go ahead and cut out my collar from the fashion fabric and stitch it in. However, you can make a "test" collar from scrap fabric that you can use as a pattern later to see if you've measured correctly and like the width and finished folded depth of your collar. Below is a piece of scrap fabric that has been cut to my determined inch length and inch width. The bodice has been turned wrong side out, and the collar is going to be "dropped" inside of the neckline "hole", all the raw edges will be aligned, and the collar will be basted by hand or by pins to the neckline Note that a yellow pin has been placed at the center back of the shirt and another at the center back of the collar.
If the collar is a little longer or shorter than the neck-edge, just increase or decrease the amount of the overlap. To check the appearance of the test-collar, turn it right side out, as shown below-- I was satisfied with the appearance of the collar, and decided to use the same measurements for the "real" collar. If I had wanted to, I could have quickly taken the stitching out and used the test-collar as the pattern for the "real" collar, but I like to just measure and cut simple rectangle shapes with my ruler and rotary cutter, rather than scissors and a pattern.
In the photo below, the shirt is folded in half, matching the shoulder seams and the neck-edges. The collar is folded in half as well and compared against the neckline, as a guideline for how much to overlap the collar Then, as was done with the "test" collar, the collar is "dropped into the hole" of the neckline Below you see the finished collar and bodice from the right side-- As you look at the photograph above The upper side of the overlap is exactly that And because the under-lap does not have to do anything but lay there Here are some variations of the design based on the same theme-- This red velour top was made with a more shallow front curve, about 4" deep.
The collar was cut about 9" wide, with No overlap. This version in Aqua stretch velour features a deeper U-shaped neckline, and the collar was cut about 8" wide with No overlap. This collar was applied to a neckline about as shallow as the Red top, and has about a 4" overlap and is the widest of the examples shown, it's width is approximately 12".
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and see what a simple technique this is for adding an interesting design feature to any basic knit top! It is that time of year when client shirt orders have been stitched and sent After a significant weight loss over the past several months, I still have some pattern-tweaking to do, but I am so happy that I've managed to sew several very wearable casual tops for myself, including this one!
Most are quite simple and not "blog-worthy", but I thought you might like to see this one. I started with a basic jewel neck pull-over, and added a self-drafted "Split Cowl Collar". The fabric is an ancient piece from my stash I am not quite down to my normal goal weight, so the drag-lines you see come from my attempts to make a larger top look a little better on a smaller form.
Here is a close-up of the Collar. If you would like me to write a Tutorial and show how to make and apply a Split Cowl Collar to any basic pull-over knit top, let me know in "comments" This is a pretty darn good "final muslin" of a nicely detailed shirt I was very pleased with the bias details on the right side Front, Cuffs, and Sleeve Plackets. But more than that I was just finishing the prep work on the final pattern for the second shirt when this blue one was ready to come out of the dryer.
I handed it to Roger and he put it on, or rather he tried to put it on. Not a little bit No big deal on the body-length, very big deal with the sleeves. And it shrank a bit width-wise too.
How the hell did this happen! I may have mentioned this before. I am a compulsive pre-washer And I measure the length and width before and after. This fabric passed my obsessive pre-wash evaluation with just a tiny bit of shrinkage. Nothing shrank during the construction, and I always press with plenty of steam. So this extra shrinkage surprise really was a surprise! The thing is, Roger really likes this checked fabric in the other color.
So against my better judgement, I am going to make another shirt for him with this fabric. So I feel only a little anxiety about the other fabric. What am I going to do with this blue shirt? I considered pinning it on my wall as a reminder to never again buy cheap shirting fabric from that really huge online fabric store But in the end I donated it What did I learn?
To wait until my always reliable online fabric store and wholesale sources of "better" shirt fabrics have what I am looking for, and until then to shop from my considerable stash.
What are those reliable sources for menswear shirting that I use, you ask? And one more thing. Before another menswear shirt gets sewn by my hands Lately I have been spending all my free time in my studio making Shirts! The distressing on the pocket and all the top-stitched seams was done by rubbing them lightly with fine-grit sandpaper.
Pattern - my original design and hand-draft. Fabric - from my shirt-making stash. Interfacing - ProWoven Shirt Crisp from www. As you can see, I used the predominantly green side for most of the shirt pieces, and chose to cut the shaped yoke, button and front plackets and pocket accents from the reverse side. Fabric is from my wholesale supplier. Extreme close-up of a Collar point This amazingly simple Collar Point technique is used by many Custom Shirtmakers all over the world.
Like many of the techniques I use, it was learned during my Tailoring and ShirtMaking Apprenticeship. There are certain techniques that Custom-ShirtMakers use to get professional results, and this is one of them. Before I get to the tutorial, please note that there are a few things that almost all Custom ShirtMakers "Always do", and "Never do". If you want your collar points to be perfect every time, with very little effort Then cut 2 collar pieces, and Interface one of them as shown below.
Generally, the top collar is interfaced. For a softer look, interface the bottom collar or interface both for a very crisp collar. I will elaborate about interfacing techniques another time However, just one side will be shown here to demonstrate the technique. If it isn't, use your fingernail to nudge it into place. Now carefully match the short edges of the collar, and stitch the seam. I use 22 stitches per inch, the number 1 stitch length setting on my machine Notice that the looped side of the thread is still sticking out beyond the edges-- STEP After the side of the collar is stitched, carefully trim the seam allowances as shown below.
Move that loop out of the way before trimming!
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